Wood Windows
Wood windows are the original — warm, classic, and right at home in older Lehigh Valley houses. The trade-off is upkeep: wood needs regular painting or staining and careful attention to moisture. That’s why many homeowners who love the wood look now choose composite, which delivers the same warmth without the maintenance calendar.

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Best for
- ✓Historic and older homes where authenticity matters
- ✓Homeowners who enjoy (or hire out) regular exterior upkeep
- ✓Rooms where a natural stained-wood interior is the goal
Why forever-home owners like them
- ✓Unmatched traditional character, especially in pre-war homes
- ✓Naturally insulating frame material
- ✓Interior can be stained or painted to match existing trim
Things to consider
- •Needs repainting or restaining on a recurring schedule — ladder work most forever-home owners would rather retire from
- •Vulnerable to moisture, rot, and insects if maintenance slips
- •Clad-wood versions reduce exterior upkeep but change the exterior profile and finish options
Wood Windows in Lehigh Valley homes: what to know
The wood replacement windows Lehigh Valley homeowners still order tend to go into a specific kind of house: the painted brick and frame Victorians on Bethlehem’s South Side and in the historic blocks near Main Street, the College Hill homes above downtown Easton, and the ornate facades climbing Broadway in Jim Thorpe. On these houses the window is part of the architecture. Sash proportions, muntin width, the depth of the exterior brickmould, and the way a painted frame catches light all matter, and wood remains the material that reproduces those details most faithfully.
Species matters more than most people expect. Pine is the common choice and takes paint well, but it wants a dependable coating on every exposed face. Denser species and factory-treated stock resist moisture longer and hold a stained finish that shows grain. Clad options wrap the exterior in an aluminum or fiberglass skin while keeping real wood inside, which is how most homeowners in this region now specify wood: the interior warmth stays, and the painting moves indoors where it happens rarely. We are candid on this site that composite gives the wood look without the calendar; wood is for houses and owners where the real thing is the point.
The regional test for wood is moisture, not cold. A humid July under a mature maple in Fountain Hill keeps a north-facing sill damp long after a storm, and that is where paint fails first and wood softens. Freeze-thaw then works the joints at the sash corners. None of this means wood cannot last; original sashes from the 1890s are still operating in many of these houses. It means the exposure on each wall decides the specification, and a careful matched installer walks the outside before recommending bare wood, clad, or a mix.
Where wood windows work best
Bethlehem historic district facades
Street-facing windows on a house that may fall within one of Bethlehem’s historic districts can be subject to review of the exterior profile and material. Your matched installer should know what the review body has accepted on nearby homes and bring a sample before anything is ordered.
Easton College Hill and Jim Thorpe
Tall, narrow double-hung openings with arched or segmented tops are common on these blocks, and wood is the easiest material to shape to them. A custom wood sash can follow a curved head that would otherwise be filled with a flat unit and a wedge of trim.
Stained interiors in older homes
Where the casings, baseboard, and stair are original stained oak or chestnut, a painted frame looks like a patch. Real wood interiors take a stain matched on site, and the grain reads as part of the room.
Sheltered walls, not shaded ones
Bare wood exteriors do best on walls with a roof overhang, morning sun, and no tree canopy dripping on the sill. On a shaded, damp wall in a Poconos cottage or a Fountain Hill side yard, a clad exterior is the sensible way to keep wood in the house.
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Glass, hardware, and operation
Wood sashes are thicker than vinyl, which gives the glazing pocket room for a full insulated unit with a warm-edge spacer, and on a historic facade that pocket can be finished with a putty-profile bead that looks like original glazing from the sidewalk. Ask your matched installer whether the grille pattern is simulated divided lite with spacer bars between the panes or a removable interior grille; the first is convincing at street distance, the second is easier to clean.
Hardware on wood windows is where the character shows. Sash locks, lifts, and casement operators come in oil-rubbed bronze, unlacquered brass, and matte black, sized to older proportions. Modern wood double-hungs use concealed balances rather than weights and cords, so the sash still tilts for cleaning. Exterior screens can be half or full height in a frame that matches the trim color.
How the installation goes
Wood replacements on pre-war houses are more often full-frame than insert. Original frames are frequently out of square, sills have been patched with filler more than once, and the weight pockets beside an old double-hung are empty cavities that should be insulated before a new unit goes in. Your matched installer will check plumb and level at the jambs, probe the sill and lower casing, and look at how the exterior brickmould meets the masonry.
On the day, expect the crew to work one opening at a time so the house is never fully open to the weather. Old sashes, weights, and pulleys come out; the pocket is filled; the new unit is set, shimmed, and flashed; and the interior stops go back to match. Exterior painting of a bare wood unit is usually a separate step after the sealant cures, so ask who handles the first coat and when.
When something else fits better
Composite Windows
When you want the warm interior and the traditional exterior profile but not a paint schedule, and the house is one you intend to keep.
Fiberglass Windows
When the facade is not under any review and you want a stiff, paintable frame that shrugs off a damp north wall without a clad skin.
Double-Hung Windows
When your question is really about matching original sash proportions and tilt-in operation; the style page covers the meeting rail and balances.
Before the visit: a wood checklist
- Find out whether your block sits inside a historic district and what the review body has approved for neighbors.
- Photograph the exterior trim profile and any arched or curved window heads so the installer can plan custom shapes.
- Decide which walls get bare wood and which get a clad exterior, based on sun, overhang, and tree cover.
- Bring a piece of interior trim or a stain sample so the species and finish can be matched in your light.
- Ask who handles the first exterior coat on bare wood and how soon after install it happens.
Wood questions
I love the look of wood. Do I have to accept the upkeep?
Not anymore. Modern composite windows offer true woodgrain interiors and rich finishes with essentially zero maintenance — it’s the most common “best of both worlds” choice we see for forever homes.
Are wood windows a bad choice?
Not at all — they’re beautiful, and in some historic districts they’re the right call. Just go in with clear eyes about the maintenance, and ask your local expert to compare wood and composite side by side.
Do wood replacement windows need a historic review in Bethlehem or Easton?
It depends on the street. Parts of Bethlehem and Easton have designated districts where exterior changes visible from the street may need approval, and Jim Thorpe has its own process. The wood replacement windows Lehigh Valley review bodies see most often are painted units matching the original profile. Your matched installer should confirm what applies to your address before ordering.
What is the difference between clad wood and bare wood?
Clad wood is a real wood frame and sash with a factory-applied aluminum or fiberglass skin on the exterior faces. The inside looks and feels like wood; the outside never needs paint. Bare wood is wood on both sides and relies on a paint or stain coating to keep moisture out. Most installers here recommend clad on exposed walls.
Which wood species holds up best in this climate?
Density and treatment matter more than the name. Pine is standard, light, and paints well, but it needs an intact coating. Denser hardwoods and factory-treated pine resist the damp longer and hold a stain that shows grain. Ask what species and treatment the line uses, and whether exterior faces are treated differently from the interior.
Can a new wood window match the arched top on my old opening?
Usually. Wood is the material most easily shaped to a curved or segmented head, and custom sashes can follow the original radius rather than filling the arch with trim. The installer templates the opening on site, so expect a longer lead time for shaped units than for standard rectangles.
How do I keep a wood sill from rotting on a shaded wall?
Keep water moving off it. A sill should slope outward, the paint film should be unbroken at the joint with the jamb, and gutters above should not drip onto it. Trim back branches that keep the wall damp, and check the sealant joint each spring. Where none of that is practical, choose a clad exterior.
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Getting wood installed near you
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